Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers-from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport-to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden.
These are the stories we've been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe'ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women's glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo's groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle's epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world's top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.
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"On n'est pas dans le futurisme, mais dans un drame bourgeois ou un thriller atmosphérique"
L'auteur se glisse en reporter discret au sein de sa propre famille pour en dresser un portrait d'une humanité forte et fragile
Au Rwanda, l'itinéraire d'une femme entre rêve d'idéal et souvenirs destructeurs
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